The ability to teach dog training commands relies on breaking them up into steps. These commands become reliable and functional when layered with different environments and distractions. This is also true when you are modifying your dog’s behavior. It also applies when you are changing your dog’s perception of things that might make them defensive or scared. Many dog owners do not realize that going slower will give them a better chance. They will more effectively reach their dog training or behavior modification goals.
Dogs neither understand English nor read minds. It is the dog owner’s and trainer’s job to break commands into teachable parts. Then, they should advance the command by increasing elements like the three Ds: duration, distance, and distraction.
Typically, dog owners will try to start a command either at the end or midway through the command. Also, once the command is started, dog owners may not see the need to build it up carefully with steps. They might skip many steps they do not know about.
There are many ways to start a command. For this example, I will show the abbreviated steps of a lured down command. To me, a lured down command begins with a small training treat. You use a piece of kibble to lure your puppy or dog into position.
Steps in a Lured Down Command:
NOTE: You would have typically already started the lured sit command. So first I lure them into a sit or if they are already sitting and waiting, I start from there. Also, each of these steps may take a week or more to achieve. Don’t do any of the steps sloppily. Make sure to finish them. Otherwise, you will leave holes in your training. Training holes can lead to frustration. Training with more care gets you to where you want faster. You won’t need to double back.
PART 1: While they are in a sit, hold the treat at their nose. This is typical for puppies especially. Then bring the treat slowly down and forward. Note that commands are not used until the performance is frequent enough so that we can name the command. Usually, the handler is down on the ground to be closer to the puppy or not so tall dog. Have this step so eventually it is easily done with treat at their nose. This first step could very well take a week, especially with a young puppy.
PART 2: Once step two can be done easily, the dog owner begins to say the command beforehand. They stand and lure with the treat held more distant from the dog’s nose. At this point, we are focusing on having the dog respond to the command. The goal is for the response to occur before or as the treat begins the lure. Once the dog relies less on the treat lure, you can proceed to the next step. I like to focus on getting the performance I want consistently. This means achieving it four times in a row out of five. I ensure it can be done easily before moving on.
PART 3: Typically, this next step is spent working on being totally upright so that luring is phased out. You should be standing straight up by the end. Give the command at this point. Your dog should go into a down close to you. We have not started the three Ds in this example. The dog owner does this by gradually bending less into a lured position. They aim to achieve four successes in a row at each posture. Once that is accomplished, they move more upright for the next session.
PART 4: Achieve the “down command” with the handler upright four times in a row. When you reach this milestone, you are ready to add more layers. It is time to progress further. These include the 3 Ds and the changing of environments. These all have their own unique steps. This part is ongoing for months to fully expose your dog to different environments and distractions while performing the command.
My goal in this article is to make it clear why training you dog takes time and care. It is not hard if your learn the steps and are honest about the progress quality. Train well out there!
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